El Arrayán, Santuario de Naturaleza, Santiago
Contribution by Rick Vezzoli

  • Location: Santuario de Naturaleza El Arrayán. 
  • Access: short
  • Rock: volcanic tuffs
  • Routes: about 10
  • Grades: 5.7-5.11
  • Characteristics: face, crack
  • Height: 15m
  • Equipment: bolts

Recently 8 routes have been developed in the Santuario de la Naturaleza in El Arrayan, Lo Barnechea, Santiago. They range from 8m to 20m in height and the grades are probably from 5.7 - 5.11. Right now these routes need to see some repeats so that we can come to concensus on the grades. (Chilean grades use the Yosemite Decimal System but, to this old gringo, seem very stiff). These are really fun routes on good rock with excellent protection.

Getting there: From Plaza San Enrique in Lo Barnechea turn onto Pastor Fernandez heading past the Roy Roy grocery store (last chance for wine and beer). Cross a bridge and then take a left turn onto Camino El Cajon. You should see a sign for the Santuario de la Naturaleza. Drive for about 5 km until the paved road turns to dirt. Drive another 1 km until you reach the gate of the Santuario, $2.000 per person, sorry! Drive about two km into the Santuario until you get to the picnic areas (see map).
If you don't have a car you can catch a colectivo at Plaza San Enrique and for $400 they will take you to the end of the paved road. For an extra $400 per car, not per person, they will drive you to the gate of the Santuario.

Once at the picnic areas, stay left, (do not cross the bridge) and walk through the last picnic area onto a path by the Estero el Arrayan. After about 200 meters the path comes out at the base of the lower cliff. To get to the upper cliff walk past the left side of the lower cliff and up the hill along a path for about 3 minutes. You will see the bolted climbs on your right. Be careful with rockfall up here - there are probably bathers in the estero below!!

Route Descriptions 

Lower Cliff (from left to right): 

  • Caballo Muerto 5.11a/b? [FA Rick Vezzoli / Sergio Juarez, March 2006] This short route has an amazing amount of climbing and a veeery strange finish. 
  • Alpha-Whore 510d? [FA Rick Vezzoli / Darlene Oehlke, March 2006] Harder than it looks. Original route goes right (see topo), let me know if you finish it direct.

Upper Cliff: (from right to left) 

  • Santana 510a? [FA Sergio Juarez / Rick Vezzoli, March 2006] This is the original line that avoids the crux crack start. 
  • Santana Direct 510c/d? [FA Sergio Juarez / Rick Vezzoli, March 2006] A nicer, more direct line. No, it's not 5.9, sorry Adolfo…. 
  • Toni's Pizza 5.8/5.9? [FA Sergio Juarez / Rick Vezzoli April 2006] Protection is more spaced out than the other climbs as this was opened from the bottom. 
  • Pumpy Picnic 5.10c/d? [FA Rick Vezzoli / Darlene Oehlke April 2006] Awesome sustained climbing! 
  • Mickey's Diner 5.10b/c? [FA Rick Vezzoli / Darlene Oehlke April 2006] Shares a start with Rik's Café 
  • Rik's Café 5.10a/b? [FA Rick Vezzoli / Sergio Juarez March 2006] Mega-classic fun line! 
  • Kara's Beaner 5.7 [FA Rick Vezzoli / Sergio Juarez May 2006] Nice, easy warm-up climb. Not so easy to clean gear on rappel…

 

It seems like there is potential for 2 or 3 more climbs here. So pack up the charcoal, filete, vino and climbing gear and make a day of it! Please contact Rick Vezzoli ravezzoli@yahoo.com if you have comments or suggestions - especially about grading.