Cerro Escudo - Topos
Contribution by Felipe González Donoso y Ronald Aguilar O. 

Do not enter without asking for permission! No entrar sin pedir permiso!

See also discription of O. Guenay below! Infierno de los Payasos, 5.10 b (4 largos)  El Diedro, 5.7 (1 largo, comparte anclaje con el matón Nº3)  El Matón, 5.8 (1 largo, anclaje con bolt y cadenas)  Fantasma, 5.8 (1 largo)  Orión, 5.10 C (1 largo, 1 bolt en la entrada)  Conde Patula, 5.7 (4 largos) Unnamed, 5.9, 7 pitches, discription see below.  Mucho viento,poca agua y la falta de cervezas (5.10) - 8 pitches Discriptions see below. !!!* En Julio fui reprendido por el dueño del predio debido a que unos “andinistas” entraron en auto hasta el pie de la pared, esto está expresamente prohibido y se puede escalar siempre y cuando se pase a avisar a una casa que está un poco pasado la base de la pared, a 100 metros de un característico boulder rojizo!!!

Route No. 1: Not a first ascent. Opened by R. Fica and R. Dorado in the 90´s. 

Remark: Variante Conga has probably been opened already by Felipe Gonzalez Donoso. 

A discription and more information from Oliver Guenay:

Cerro El Escudo (Cerro Fundo el Romeral) 2048m

This isolated granite island is rising above the El Romeral side of Cajon de Maipo near the Fundo of Carlos Olivares,Cel. 09-6605933, who is the owner and requires from all the climbers to friendly ask permission before starting! He also offers horseriding and camping.Escudo is a roughly 200 mts crag of 65 degrees angle inclined granit with a triangular shoulder below of the main wall (facing SE). To the South the granit rises nearly vertically, split into a number of dihedros.

There are 5 longer routes:(beginning of 2006) Infierno de los Payasos (4 pitches),5.10 Conde Patula (4pitches), 5.7 Variante a Conga (5 pitches), 5.7 El Lado obscuro del corazon (5.7) - a solo climb, Mucho viento,poca agua y la falta de cervezas (5.10) - 8 pitches,the longest route

It is necessary to bring a whole set of nuts/tricams and a set of friends and camalots in order to have proper protection as,so far, except a few bolts, nothing has been put. This gives a chance to all those who want to experience clean and alpine climbing, to all those who are looking for a decent place to train and enjoy it away from climbing schools but still at low level of altitude and with a fast and easy access and descent!

Access. Drive to San Gabriel,pass the police check and continue for approx. 5 more kms. The rough road turns down to cross the "Puente el Volcan". There are two dirt roads turning left before.Take the second last to the left and follow north along a small plateau above the river. Pass two prperties on your right side and continue.Pass a cubic metall hut construction on your left side and turn left after approx. 800 mts where you end in front of a farmhouse.There lives Ricardo olivares. be friednly,say Hallo and ask for permission to climb.It will be normally granted. Follow back until shortly after the cubic metall hut where you turn right until a space.There you station the car and climb up the scree and blockflank to the foot of the rockface (30 Min.)

Descent: from the summit turn south and walk down on steep dusty scree into a saddle,from where you turn east to reach the base of the rockface. Count 25 min.

Recommendation: It is highly recommended to start the climb early thus avoiding the very strong valley winds of the afternoon which make climbing somewhat delicate in exposed positions!

"Mucho viento, poca sombra y la falta de cervezas" (lots of wind,little shadow and no beers around!") 5.10a (one step), 5.9 ( one step) 5.7 and some 5.8 mostly with some passages of walking on terrasses - excellent route on slabs,cracks and a dihedro, 1st ascent by Oliver Guenay and Gustavo Vergara, dec.28th,2005 - the route all clean with no pitons or bolts!

Route Description: 1.pitch: start at the base of the prominent dihedro that separates the triangular wall from the mainface. Climb up on a fine crack crossing the slab on the righthand side of the dihedro. Belay after 35 mts. (5.7) 2.pitch: Follow straight up into a vertical crack (5.10a) and belay beyond it (15 mts) 3.Pitch Follow left of the edge formed by huge flakes, by using a series of short cracks and flakes, on to a terrass. 35 mts (5.7-5.8) 4.pitch: continue across the head of the triangle to reach the mainwall by climbing the right one of two parallel cracks right across the middle of upper wall (looks like a giant piece of rock cubbles).Belay on block - 30mts (5.7) 5.pitch: cross around the block to the mainwall and traverse left to belay on the mainwall (20 mts. - without difficulties) 6.pitch: climb up across an arc of broken rock to its right edge and from there into a short dihedro (very loose rock on its left side!!!) and on to a ledge (belay) - 5.9 45mts 7.pitch: From the ledge climb up straight on to a terasse.Follow up to the right and climb up on a crack right of a dihedro to the edge of rock gully - 5.8 - 40 mts 8.pitch: Follow the rock gully to the left where you reach a rock ridge that leads you to the summit easily - 50 mts - (5.6 and walking) total: 265 mts of climbing, 220 mts of altitude difference, allow 4hrs!

Here a discription of Tango Bávaro (remark: probably not a first ascent):

Tango Bavaro: Oliver Guenay and Manjo Wulfert,20.1.06 7 pitches up to 5.9, classic climbing in the lower section on excellent granit,upper part easier and a bit loose rock on ledges

Details: Start in the middle of the rpominent lower rock triangle, by climbing on to a ledge from the left of the base. A piton was left where the climb begins! 1.pitch: follow straight up across steep slabs and small offwidth cracks to belay (1 piton) on a short ledge (25mts, grade 5.9, 1 piton, use medium and small friends from size 0.25) 2.pitch: climb up a series of parallel short cracks,turn right,it widens to a short chimney,follow up to gully with loose rock and climb the lefthand edge of it (passing a bush) then turn right a climb the headwall of that gully straight up to a bush and belay! (55 mts, grade 5.8) - you can also belay around the first bush,but less comfortable! 3.pitch: Follow straight up across a section of ledges with loose rock to the base of the lefthand edge of the top of the triangle, where you find 1 piton and climb the edge (ridge with huge blocks stapled over each other to comfortable belay on a huge block (35 mts, grade 5.6 - for belay use friend 4 or 5 plus small friends) 4.pitch: continue up the ridge on to the top of the triangle and cross it to the base of the main wall (35 mts,grade 5.6) at a piton.(belay) 5.pitch: climb up straight across the wall and the following wall to a ledge with 1 belay piton (35 mts, 5.9) 6.pitch: From the ledge (a short dihedro is on the left,its part of the other route "Mucho viento,poca sombra y la falta de cervezas...) traverse 5 mts to the right and climb up to a section with loose rock and a short wall to the base of a gully (50 mts, 5.6) belay on a block (large sling necessary) 7.pitch: from the base of the gully climb straight up the across good rock to a section of loose rock and sand and across it to the summit. (55 mts,5.6) belay on a block,large sling necessary!

from the summit turn down to the left into a saddle and from there cross left to the base of the rockwall (30 min.)

ok. mention that I have both topos of both my routes. required for "Tango Bavaro" are a full set of friends from size 0.25 to 5 and a full set of nuts,some medium and small tricams are also usefull! Enough slings to be taken with,of course!