Photo: Mike Soldner This cliff is located at the base of Punta Zanzi, some 10 min. above the car. It is the most recent development in sport climbing in the Cajón. The now existing routes are on good to acceptable rock, not overprotected and require athletic climbing on steep and exposed faces. The rock is extremely closed. Natural protection or placing pitons is hardly possible. As is seen in the picture below, there are more, untouched faces above and to the right. In future, these cliffs could become an important sport climbing area of the Cajón. 
Photo: M.W.
Eduardo M. in Psicosis, 5.10b


  • Location: Above Baños Morales in the Cajón de Maipo, see map Cajón de Maipo
  • Access: 0.5h from the road from Baños Morales to Baños Colina.
  • Rock: Hard sandstone
  • Routes: 7
  • Grades: 5.9-5.11
  • Characteristics: Steep faces on good holds, up to 5 pitches
  • Height: until 120m
  • Equipment: Bolts in place
  • Exposure: NW
  • Season: October to May

More photos...

photo: Nacho

Last summer (2001), the first routes of a new cliff were bolted in the area of Lo Valdes. To get there, park right in front of the start of the approach to Punta Zanzi, some 3 km. from Lo Valdes, and walk about 10 minutes up a scree to an evident dihedral, visible from the road. The first ascents are credited to A. Zegers and a casual Swiss partner, during the shooting of the Cumbres de Chile video in 1999. The lines chosen were the characteristic dihedral at the bottom center of the crag, and a rather dirty crack that runs through the wall to the left hand. Both routes were climbed and rapped down without leaving fixed gear. To repeat the "Dihedral" (5.9+/5+, 95 mt.), take a set of cams, a set of nuts and two 50 mt. ropes. A helmet is recommended due to the always imminent rock fall hazard. The route is not hard, but in some sections the rock is rather rotten and placing gear may be hard. To descend, the rappels in Vertigo may be used, though you must reach the terrace at the top and downclimb a little to reach the anchor. "Vertigo" (5.10d/6b, 90 mt.), bolted by J.I. Morales and J.A. Bascuñan in March 2002, is the first sport route of the crag, and takes a straight, airy arete, starting left of the Dihedral, right above from the badge in memory of Heinz and Christian Heitmann. The route has 2 pitches, and a variety of moderate technical problems, from edges, pockets, roofs, dihedrals and even some crack moves. Take two 50 m ropes, 15 draws and a helmet. Rapps are set, and may be used to descend from the Dihedral. Further to the left, "The 39 Steps" (5.11d/7a, 100 mt.), by Pere Vilarasau and his brother Ignacio, has 3 pitches and is currently the hardest route. In Pere's words, the moves themselves are not as hard as linking them all on sight, so whoever wants to tick it off rather be ready for the worse. 

First ascent of Vertigo, foto: J.Bascuñán Photo: I.B. Andueza
Censurada 5.8

Dimensión Desconocida, 10p. 5.9
  1. Requiem 7a+ 70m, 2 largos de 35m, 1er largo 6c y 2do largo 7a+, Juan José Fernández 2003.
  2. 39 escalones 6b+, 7ª+, 6ª , 85m, Pere Vilarasau y hermano, 2002 (rating to high? A.Zegers: 6b+).
  3. La soga 6c+ 70m, dos largos de 35m, 1er largo 6c+ y 2do 6c, Juan José Fernández, 2003
  4. Psicosis 4+, 6ª, 6ª+ , 90m, José Ignacio Morales y Cristóbal Vidal, 2003
  5. Fresca Rica 5.10a 25m, Carlos Pinto, Ignacio Bravo, Anne Boucault Jan. 2004
  6. La Censurada 5.8 25m, Carlos Pinto, Ignacio Bravo, Anne Boucault Jan. 2004
  7. Vértigo 6b, 6b, 90m, José Ignacio Morales, Jaime Andrés Bascuñán, 2002
  8. diedro original 5, 5+ 90m, A.Zegers y companero (un solo seguro en la ruta, necesario un juego de friends)
  9. Con la muerte en los talones 6c, 6b+, 5, 115m, (un juego de friends hasta el nº3 a partir de la segunda mitad del segundo largo, 3ª reunión sobre una fisura de 6 metros a la izquierda de la chimenea final). Virginie Debourdeau, Mikel Martiarena, 2002
  10. Dimensión Desconocida, 5.9, 10p., M.Waldhoer, E. Mondragón Jan. 2004, ascent from below, nice climb on first 6p., more ore less protected with bolts, p.7-10 require advanced climbing in loose rock, hardly protectable, rappel from jammed knots, ropes and a single piton. The finish is not recommended. 

All routes bolted from above, except No. 5 and 10


 Topo: M.W.