WATERFALLS OF MARMOLEJO

In February 2002 the ice waterfalls of the Cerro Marmolejo have been visited by climbers, who left one of the very hardest routes on ice. The waterfalls are formed nearly all year round. High altitudes will require a good acclimatization. See map Detail of Baņos Morales and Embalse el Yeso

• Location: Cajón del Maipo, 20 km from Baños Morales, up the Cajón del Morado
• Access: 1-2 days
• Grades: 3 routes exists, WI5-, WI 6+, WI7+, see below
• Characteristics: Giant waterfalls visible from road
• Height: 300m?, altitude ca. 5000m
• Equipment: Ice
• Exposure: SE
• Season: Also in summer

Ben Firth y Eamonn Walsh first visited the giant waterfalls. They left a route called "The Nook". Here is the original description: 1st-2nd pitch W4, 3rd Scrambling, 4th-5th W6+, looks similar to French Maid in Canada http://www.climbing.com/Pages/gallery_pages/206/gallery-206.01.html, The hard bit of the route is around, 4500-5000m, we did it in Febuary so things were a bit warm up there.

In January 2006, the Austrians Harald Berger and Albert Leichtfried put up two new routes in the S-face: "Senda Real" WI7+ (6 pitches) with an ice-roof (6m overhanging) and "Tripple Direct" WI5- (2 pitches).