LAS MELOSAS
Escalada en el acantilado derecho
de Las Melosas, dibujo: M.Waldhoer

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Rutas en las Melosas:

1: La Decidida: 5.9, 5.10b, 2p. 2 pitons, equipo completo
2: El Chico Fálico: 5.10a. 1p. 5 bolts
3: Agotamiento: 5.11d?, 1p. 2 bolts, 3 pitons, equipo completo
4: Sobrecarga: 5.12a?, 1p. 3 bolts, equipo completo
5: Canto: 5.10a, 5.9, 2p. 1 piton, equipo completo
6: Darling: 5.11c, A1, 2p. 6 bolts, peque&$241;os friends
7: Justo al lado: 5.9, 5.10c, 2p., equipo completo
8,9: Fisuras 5.8, 5.9
10: Era como taladro: 5.11c 1p. 5 bolts
11. Diedro: 5.7
12. Patos Asados: 5.11a, 5 bolts
13. Águilas Humanas 5.8 2p.
14. Conflicto 5.10a 25m 8 bolts
15. Corticoide 5.9 90m 3p. 3 bolts
16. Martinles 5.10d, 8 bolts
17. Puntualidad Chilensis 5.11a/b 4 bolts, friends
18. Del 5 al Sub6, 5.10d, 9 bolts, rocks, friends
19. El Jaulero 5.10b 1 bolt, rocks, friends
20. La Cagada, 5.10c A0, 7 bolts, rocks, friends


Equipo completo: friends y stoppers
Cuidado con los bloques sueltos. ¡¡Aún hay mucho espacio a la izquierda!!

Registro de rutas:
19.12.02 La Cagada Las Melosas, left of Agotamiento M.Waldhoer, E. Mondragón, José Edwards 70m, 2p., 5.10a, 5.10c A0, 7bolts Nice dihedral and face climbing, take friends until 3 and stoppers, good pro, to be freeclimbed,  ascent from below
06.12.02 Del 5 al Sub-6 Las Melosas, start in dihedrals left of La Decidida, 2.pitch goes ridge up to top M.Waldhoer, E. Waldhoer, E. Mondragón 70m 2p., 5.10d, 5.10c, 9 bolts Nice and hard dihedrals, pro good, take stoppers and small friends, ascent from below
06.12.02 El Jaulero Las Melosas, left of Conflicto M.Waldhoer, E. Mondragón 25m 1p. 5.10b, 1bolt on belay Fine hand and finger cracks, very good protection with friends and stoppers, ascent from below
5.05.01 Unnamed Las Melosas, right sector A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer 15m, 5.11c, 7 bolts  Face, from above
5.05.01 Unnamed Las Melosas, right sector A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer 15m, 5.13?, 7 bolts  Face, from above, project
5.05.01 Unnamed Las Melosas, right sector A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer 15m, 5.6, 2 bolts at top Nice hand crack, from below
5.05.01 Boomerang Las Melosas, right sector A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer 20m, 5.12b, 2 bolts Overhanging face, from above
3.05.01 Avispado Las Melosas, right sector A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer 20m, 5.12a, 5 bolts Overhanging face, from above
3.05.01 El Minero Las Melosas, right sector A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer 20m, 5.10d Overhanging crack, from above
30.04.01 Piel de banana Las Melosas, right sector, right of Era como taladro M.Waldhoer, A.Zegers, E.Mondragón, W.Farías 12m, 5.11d, 5 bolts Face, friction, from above
30.04.01 Ecofacista Las Melosas, right sector, left of Yo quer... M.Waldhoer, A.Zegers. E.Mondragón 12m, 5.11b, 2 bolts Face and finger, from above
30.04.01 Yo quería ser grande Melosas, right sector A.Zegers, M.Waldhoer 10m, 5.8 Nice hand crack dihedral, from below

08.04.01

Águilas Humanas 

Las Melosas

W.Farías, P.Besser,  R. Fica

50m, 2p. 5.8

Dihedrals right of Agotamiento

08.04.01

Puntualidad Chilensis

Las Melosas, right of Patos Asados

E. Mondragón, M.Waldhoer

30m, 1p. 5.11a/b, 4 bolts

Stopper 1 and small friends to 1. bolt (12m), from above

08.04.01

Martinles

Las Melosas, left of Patos Asados

P.Besser, W.Farías, M.Waldhoer

30m, 1p. 5.10d, 8 bolts

Well protected, excellent face climb, from above

24.03.01

Crack exit

Las Melosas, above Corticoide and Agotamiento

M.Waldhoer, W.Farias, A.Zegers

40m, 5.9, 1 piton

Nice crack, good pro, still somewhat dirty, from below

18.03.01

Corticoide

Las Melosas, right of Agotamiento

M.Waldhoer,X.Alarcon, P.Besser, W.Farias

90m, 5.9, 3 bolts

Nice cracks, good pro, from below

24.02.01

Conflicto

Las Melosas, at the left end of the cliff

S.Chacón, P.Besser

25m, 5.10a, 8 bolts

Slab climbing, from above

18.02.01

Unnamed

Las Melosas, at the left end of the cliff

P.Besser, R.Fica

100m, 5.8, 2-4 pitches

Varied

31.12.00

Patos Asados

Las Melosas

E.Mondragón, W.Farías, M.Waldhoer

35m, 5.11a, 5 bolts

Excellent face climbing on small holds, pro far but good

31.12.00

Diedro

Las Melosas

W.Farías, E.Mondragón, M.Waldhoer

50m, 5.7

Nice dihedral on good rock. Clean climb.

30.09.00

Agotamiento

Las Melosas, 15min. from car

M.Waldhoer, W.Farías, E.Mondragón

35m, 1p., 5.12a, fine cracks and slabs

3 bolts, ascent from below, small friends+rocks

24.09.00

Fisura

Las Melosas, 15min. from car

Waldo Farías, Martin Waldhoer

15m, 1p., 5.8, crack

friends+rocks

24.09.00

Sobrecarga

Las Melosas, 15min. from car

Waldo Farías, Martin Waldhoer

35m, 1p., >5.11?, finger cracks and slabs

5 bolts, equipped from above, small friends+rocks

24.09.00

Canto

Las Melosas, 15min. from car

Martin Waldhoer, Waldo Farías

60m, 2p., 5.10a, 5.9, thin cracks and dihedral

no bolts, ascent from below, small friends+rocks

18.09.00

Darling

Las Melosas, 15min. from car

Martin Waldhoer, Eduardo Mondragón, Waldo Farías

50m, 2p., 5.11c, 5.10 A1, thin crack, to be free climbed!

Sport climb, 5 bolts, equipped from above, small friends + rocks, partly poor pro

18.09.00

Era como taladro

Las Melosas, 15min. from car

M.Waldhoer, E. Mondragón, W.Farías, X. Alarcón

20m, 5.11b, face climbing

Sport climb, 5 bolts, equipped from above; going right (if reaching hold): 5.10d

17.09.00

El chico fálico

Las Melosas, 15min. from car

Eduardo Mondragón, Gina Alvarado

20m, 5.10a

Sport climb, 6 bolts, equipped from above

17.09.00

Justo al lado

Las Melosas, 15min. from car

Martin Waldhoer, Waldo Farías, Cristina Prieta

dihedral with fine cracks, 50m, 2p., 5.8, 5.10c

Descent by 1 rappel, nothing in place, small friends and rocks, partly poor protection

27.08.00

Juan Lucas

Las Melosas, after the bridge down to river and cross, 3 min.

Martin Waldhoer, Waldo Farías

Granite crack, 15m, A1, >5.11?, friends, rocks

Descent by rappel from tree, extremely smooth rock

27.08.00

La Decidida

Las Melosas, after the bridge at the entrance of the valley turn right, 15min. to slabby wall

Waldo Farías, Martin Waldhoer

Granit face, 70m, 2p. 5.9,5.10b obl., friends, rocks

Descent by 1 rappel and 20m easy down climb


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