LAS MELOSAS
Rutas en las Melosas:
1: La Decidida: 5.9, 5.10b, 2p. 2 pitons, equipo completo
2: El Chico Fálico: 5.10a. 1p. 5 bolts
3: Agotamiento: 5.11d?, 1p. 2 bolts, 3 pitons, equipo completo
4: Sobrecarga: 5.12a?, 1p. 3 bolts, equipo completo
5: Canto: 5.10a, 5.9, 2p. 1 piton, equipo completo
6: Darling: 5.11c, A1, 2p. 6 bolts, peque&$241;os friends
7: Justo al lado: 5.9, 5.10c, 2p., equipo completo
8,9: Fisuras 5.8, 5.9
10: Era como taladro: 5.11c 1p. 5 bolts
11. Diedro: 5.7
12. Patos Asados: 5.11a, 5 bolts
13. Águilas Humanas 5.8 2p.
14. Conflicto 5.10a 25m 8 bolts
15. Corticoide 5.9 90m 3p. 3 bolts
16. Martinles 5.10d, 8 bolts
17. Puntualidad Chilensis 5.11a/b 4 bolts, friends
18. Del 5 al Sub6, 5.10d, 9 bolts, rocks, friends
19. El Jaulero 5.10b 1 bolt, rocks, friends
20. La Cagada, 5.10c A0, 7 bolts, rocks, friends
Equipo completo: friends y stoppers
Cuidado con los bloques sueltos. ¡¡Aún hay mucho espacio a la izquierda!!
Registro de rutas:
19.12.02 | La Cagada | Las Melosas, left of Agotamiento | M.Waldhoer, E. Mondragón, José Edwards | 70m, 2p., 5.10a, 5.10c A0, 7bolts | Nice dihedral and face climbing, take friends until 3 and stoppers, good pro, to be freeclimbed, ascent from below |
06.12.02 | Del 5 al Sub-6 | Las Melosas, start in dihedrals left of La Decidida, 2.pitch goes ridge up to top | M.Waldhoer, E. Waldhoer, E. Mondragón | 70m 2p., 5.10d, 5.10c, 9 bolts | Nice and hard dihedrals, pro good, take stoppers and small friends, ascent from below |
06.12.02 | El Jaulero | Las Melosas, left of Conflicto | M.Waldhoer, E. Mondragón | 25m 1p. 5.10b, 1bolt on belay | Fine hand and finger cracks, very good protection with friends and stoppers, ascent from below |
5.05.01 | Unnamed | Las Melosas, right sector | A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer | 15m, 5.11c, 7 bolts | Face, from above |
5.05.01 | Unnamed | Las Melosas, right sector | A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer | 15m, 5.13?, 7 bolts | Face, from above, project |
5.05.01 | Unnamed | Las Melosas, right sector | A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer | 15m, 5.6, 2 bolts at top | Nice hand crack, from below |
5.05.01 | Boomerang | Las Melosas, right sector | A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer | 20m, 5.12b, 2 bolts | Overhanging face, from above |
3.05.01 | Avispado | Las Melosas, right sector | A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer | 20m, 5.12a, 5 bolts | Overhanging face, from above |
3.05.01 | El Minero | Las Melosas, right sector | A.Zegers, E.Mondragón M.Waldhoer | 20m, 5.10d | Overhanging crack, from above |
30.04.01 | Piel de banana | Las Melosas, right sector, right of Era como taladro | M.Waldhoer, A.Zegers, E.Mondragón, W.Farías | 12m, 5.11d, 5 bolts | Face, friction, from above |
30.04.01 | Ecofacista | Las Melosas, right sector, left of Yo quer... | M.Waldhoer, A.Zegers. E.Mondragón | 12m, 5.11b, 2 bolts | Face and finger, from above |
30.04.01 | Yo quería ser grande | Melosas, right sector | A.Zegers, M.Waldhoer | 10m, 5.8 | Nice hand crack dihedral, from below |
08.04.01 |
Águilas Humanas |
Las Melosas |
W.Farías, P.Besser, R. Fica |
50m, 2p. 5.8 |
Dihedrals right of Agotamiento |
08.04.01 |
Puntualidad Chilensis |
Las Melosas, right of Patos Asados |
E. Mondragón, M.Waldhoer |
30m, 1p. 5.11a/b, 4 bolts |
Stopper 1 and small friends to 1. bolt (12m), from above |
08.04.01 |
Martinles |
Las Melosas, left of Patos Asados |
P.Besser, W.Farías, M.Waldhoer |
30m, 1p. 5.10d, 8 bolts |
Well protected, excellent face climb, from above |
24.03.01 |
Crack exit |
Las Melosas, above Corticoide and Agotamiento |
M.Waldhoer, W.Farias, A.Zegers |
40m, 5.9, 1 piton |
Nice crack, good pro, still somewhat dirty, from below |
18.03.01 |
Corticoide |
Las Melosas, right of Agotamiento |
M.Waldhoer,X.Alarcon, P.Besser, W.Farias |
90m, 5.9, 3 bolts |
Nice cracks, good pro, from below |
24.02.01 |
Conflicto |
Las Melosas, at the left end of the cliff |
S.Chacón, P.Besser |
25m, 5.10a, 8 bolts |
Slab climbing, from above |
18.02.01 |
Unnamed |
Las Melosas, at the left end of the cliff |
P.Besser, R.Fica |
100m, 5.8, 2-4 pitches |
Varied |
31.12.00 |
Patos Asados |
Las Melosas |
E.Mondragón, W.Farías, M.Waldhoer |
35m, 5.11a, 5 bolts |
Excellent face climbing on small holds, pro far but good |
31.12.00 |
Diedro |
Las Melosas |
W.Farías, E.Mondragón, M.Waldhoer |
50m, 5.7 |
Nice dihedral on good rock. Clean climb. |
30.09.00 |
Agotamiento |
Las Melosas, 15min. from car |
M.Waldhoer, W.Farías, E.Mondragón |
35m, 1p., 5.12a, fine cracks and slabs |
3 bolts, ascent from below, small friends+rocks |
24.09.00 |
Fisura |
Las Melosas, 15min. from car |
Waldo Farías, Martin Waldhoer |
15m, 1p., 5.8, crack |
friends+rocks |
24.09.00 |
Sobrecarga |
Las Melosas, 15min. from car |
Waldo Farías, Martin Waldhoer |
35m, 1p., >5.11?, finger cracks and slabs |
5 bolts, equipped from above, small friends+rocks |
24.09.00 |
Canto |
Las Melosas, 15min. from car |
Martin Waldhoer, Waldo Farías |
60m, 2p., 5.10a, 5.9, thin cracks and dihedral |
no bolts, ascent from below, small friends+rocks |
18.09.00 |
Darling |
Las Melosas, 15min. from car |
Martin Waldhoer, Eduardo Mondragón, Waldo Farías |
50m, 2p., 5.11c, 5.10 A1, thin crack, to be free climbed! |
Sport climb, 5 bolts, equipped from above, small friends + rocks, partly poor pro |
18.09.00 |
Era como taladro |
Las Melosas, 15min. from car |
M.Waldhoer, E. Mondragón, W.Farías, X. Alarcón |
20m, 5.11b, face climbing |
Sport climb, 5 bolts, equipped from above; going right (if reaching hold): 5.10d |
17.09.00 |
El chico fálico |
Las Melosas, 15min. from car |
Eduardo Mondragón, Gina Alvarado |
20m, 5.10a |
Sport climb, 6 bolts, equipped from above |
17.09.00 |
Justo al lado |
Las Melosas, 15min. from car |
Martin Waldhoer, Waldo Farías, Cristina Prieta |
dihedral with fine cracks, 50m, 2p., 5.8, 5.10c |
Descent by 1 rappel, nothing in place, small friends and rocks, partly poor protection |
27.08.00 |
Juan Lucas |
Las Melosas, after the bridge down to river and cross, 3 min. |
Martin Waldhoer, Waldo Farías |
Granite crack, 15m, A1, >5.11?, friends, rocks |
Descent by rappel from tree, extremely smooth rock |
27.08.00 |
La Decidida |
Las Melosas, after the bridge at the entrance of the valley turn right, 15min. to slabby wall |
Waldo Farías, Martin Waldhoer |
Granit face, 70m, 2p. 5.9,5.10b obl., friends, rocks |
Descent by 1 rappel and 20m easy down climb |