AGUJAS DEL MESONCITO - ROUTES

Valle Del Mesoncito, photo: M.W.  
Overview

At present, there are four routes, one of them unknown. During the first ascents of the routes, the faces have been named Aguja Toblerone (1), Aguja Snickers (2) and Aguja Caramelo (3). The face of Aguja Toblerone is nearly free of loose stuff. Inclined slabs allow friction climbs to be put up. Protection has to be done by bolting. The other two faces are steeper, but with much more holds. The routes follow existing cracks which can be well protected. Altogether, the rock can be classified as "acceptable" within the offered range of quality around.
Cuchufli is a good introduction to alpine climbing. The crux is to get to the first bolt. After that you have to find a traverse to the right over a slab. Cockroach Cluster partly requires climbing in bad rock, but you will be rewarded by a fine dihedral in the last pitch. Berty Bottīs Every Flavour Beans offers rock of every taste. If you are out for summits, better rappel down after the 5. pitch. 

05.01.03 Cuchufli  Aguja Toblerone 1h from road M.& E.Waldhoer starts at 2750m, 250m, 7p. 5.7, 5 belay bolts + 1 in first pitch solid rock, cracks and slabs, somewhat unprotected, more routes on slabs can be done, rappel down route
07.01.03 Cockroach Cluster  Aguja Snickers 3-5h to base camp E..& M.Waldhoer starts at 3600m, 200m, 6p. 5.8 Impressive dihedral in last pitch, well protectable, rappel down route
08.01.03 Berty Bottīs Every Flavour Beans  Aguja Caramelo 3-5h to base camp E..& M.Waldhoer starts at 3800m, 300m, 9p. 5.9, 4 bolts Good line up a prominent pillar, 5 pitches on good rock, well protectable, somewhat loose to top out, rappel down route
Cuchufli
Aguja Toblerone, Cuchufli, 5.7, 5.6, 5.7, 5.6, 5.4, 5.4. Descent: rappel down (belay ropes and bolts)

Aguja Toblerone, Cuchufli, photo: M.W.
Overview
Base of Aguja Toblerone
Slabs viewed from the base. Friction climbs in the grade 5.9-5.10 are possible, but require much bolting.
Cockroach Cluster 5.8, Aguja Toblerone
Cockroach Cluster 5.8, Aguja Snickers. Descent: rappel down (belay ropes)		 Aguja Caramelo y Aguja Toblerone, Photo: M.W.
Overview Aguja Caramelo (left) and Aguja Snickers (right)

Last pitch of Cockroach Cluster, 5.8
The esthetic 5.8 dihedral of the last pitch of Cockroach Cluster

Berty Bottīs Every Flavour Beans
Berty Bottīs Every Flavour Beans		 Photo: M.Waldhoer
Crack in 4. pitch

 

Berty Bottīs Every Flavour Beans follows a prominent pilar and presents a nice sequence of cracks through 5 pitches. There are smooth slabs to the left which could allow excellent face climbs, however, no clean protection is possible. 
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