VILLA PAULINA (Yerba Loca)

The granite faces of Villa Paulina are located in the valley of Yerba Loca, a national reserve, a one-hour drive from the city and a two-hour approach. They are still underdeveloped. Many more routes can be put up in these generally good granites. There are several smaller cliffs on the way up to main cliff. Some routes are reported to exist in these. The face is quite shady, allowing to climb only in summer. There is good camping in the park and below the faces. Be careful with the water from the main river because of mineral contamination. Take water from the tributaries.

The 400m granite cliff of Villa Paulina with some routes. Left: Vaca Loca

• Access: 2h from Villa Paulina, see map of Farellones
• Rock: Granite
• Routes: about 6, little known
• Grades: 5.9-5.10
• Characteristics: Face and crack climbing up to 10 pitches
• Height: until 400m
• Equipment: Nothing in place
• Exposure: ESE
• Season: October to May

During the first ascent of Vaca Loca, 7 pitches, 5.10a.