See topos... See climbing photos...
|
|
Left: Pared del Solarium next to the road with ca. 10 routes up to 10
pitches. Below: El Pilar 5.11a
|
The valley above Rengo has a number of fabulous granite cliffs high up to 600 m. In former times some 15 years ago, this was the main and the best climbing area of the Central Cordillera. Francisco "Pancho" Arias and Waldo "Mota" Farías, the best climbers of Chile in those times put up (up!) most of the routes, which have been the most difficult in the region for years. A good white road left you at 5 min. from the rocks. Although private land, there were no access restrictions. Some say after a wild fire caused by careless people, the owners closed the site, strictly denying access to anybody. In addition, the copper mine project higher up in the valley which used to maintain the road, has been abandonned and so it was swept away by the occasional floods. In 2001, climbers began to 'infiltrate' again. Eduardo Mondragón and Martin Waldhoer opened the new route 'Paraiso Perdido' on the Solarium face. After this, climbers could access again and opened some 15 routes more, some of them among the best of the whole country. Many people came to Rengo or tried it at least. We had to take this Rengo section off-line to prevent the area from becoming crowded. Eventually, in 2006, the owner got fed up and the party was over again. What a pity! We now put these pages on-line again. Chilean climbers! Look how much rock there is in this country - it is supposedly yours! - and how less you are allowed to access... |
 The big traverse of the left route (5.11) |
 Pepe during the First ascent of Viernes 13 (5.9) |
|
|
||
 |
 |
| Untouched faces high up to 600m | Torre Norte, 500m of finest granite. Only 5 routes are done. |
Condor looking
at potential food.