ICE WATERFALLS OF VOLCÁN SAN JOSÉ

Ice falls of Volcán San José, 2001, photo: M.W.
Tarántula, Jihad Icelámica, Viuda Negra		 Eduardo starting the lower fall, 2001, photo: M.W.
Tarántula

The waterfalls in April 2001 with the lines climbed until 2003. The lowermost waterfall (La Tarantula, 70m, WI 4, picture above right)  has been climbed by E.Mondragón and M.Waldhoer on 10.04.01, but without the final candle. The right (easy but threatened by ice fall!) and upper line was done the 12.12.02 (Viuda Negra, 70m, WI 5). Jihad Icelámico has been added in 2003 by E.Mondragón and M.Martiarena. For the first time, they reached the top of the wall. With around 4000-4300m altitude is considerable but still moderate. The hut provides an excellent base but is often completely under snow (e.g. Dec. 2002!). Camps can also be set up closer to the falls. 

Location:  Cajón del Maipo, 10 km from Baños Morales,   see map Detail of Baños Morales ... The huge amphitheatre with the falls inside, photo: M.W.
Access: 4-5h from Baños Morales to hut, 3h from hut to base of waterfalls (no snow)
Grades:  WI 4-5
Characteristics:  Ice waterfalls, partly threatened by serac falls
Height: altogether 300m, altitude of base ca. 4000m
Equipment: Ice screws, pitons
Exposure: S
Season:  Best in fall and spring, in good years also in summer, but often too warm!

The routes:
13.04.03 Jihad Icelamica Ice waterfalls of Volcán San José, second step, just above La Tarantula M.Martiarena, E.Mondragón 360m (160m of ice) WI V, 5, stalactites in vertical ice in the second pitch. Heavy danger of serac falls in approach couloir Serious and demanding,  vertical ice at 4200m: climb 3 pitches followed by 200m of snow to the base of the last pitch. Descent: walk to the feft to wide couloir and down (2 hours). 
12.12.02 La Viuda Negra Ice waterfalls of Volcán San José, second step, 200m above the lower fall La Tarantula E.Mondragón, M.Waldhoer 70m, 2p. WI5, 85° average with steps of 90° Demanding, steep black ice at an altitude of 4200m, heavy danger of serac falls in approach couloir below

10.04.01

La Tarantula

Volcán San José, 4000m, 3h from hut

M.Waldhoer, E.Mondragón

70m, 3p. WI4, 85°

4 more waterfalls are waiting

 
Viuda Negra, WI5, photo: M.W.
Above: Viuda Negra

Right: Viuda Negra from above

Photo: E.Mondragón

More photos...