COCHAMÓ
With contributions of Richard G. Bell, M. Sánchez, D. Seeliger and others

Photo: M.Sanchez
Martin high above all after first ascent of Icaro y la Luna (5.10c, 700m), Escudo Face. On the other side Cerro La Junta (900m) and Cerro Capicúa (1000m). Everything else is almost untouched. 
 
  • Location: southern Chile, near Puerto Montt, see map Overview Chile - Argentina
  • Access: 4h from road, 6h from Cochamó, there is the new, fantastic hut of Daniel available now.
  • Rock: Granite, sometimes with vegetation or sandy due to moderate altitudes around 1000m
  • Routes: about 80, mostly aid, about 40 free-climbs
  • Grades: 5.9-5.13, until A4-A5. About 20 reasonable free climbs until now (2008)
  • Characteristics: Mostly remote faces, up to 2 days approach from hut, only a few within 1h, some sport climbs. Most still to put up. Not always good weather. 
  • Heights: 20-1000m
  • Equipment: Some bolts in place, take plenty of gear for cracks, camping and a fantastic climbers hut below in the valley: www.cochamo.com
  • Season: October to April, best in February

The eternal plague: los tabanos

The old hut of Daniel Seeliger. The new, big one is on the other side of the river. 

Los Toboganes

Cochamó is a place of outstanding beauty and of untouched, 'violent' nature. If you ever asked yourself how Yosemite may have looked like before men's arrival - here is it. There are numerous faces high up to 1000 m. The sheer amount of rock exceeds by far a Yosemite´s resources, however, the faces are often not of best rock quality, far from the valley and access is still a hard struggle through almost impenetrable vegetation. 

Cochamó is certainly now the first place for rock climbing in Chile. This fact is mainly due to the incredible effort of Daniel Seeliger. He runs a climber and trekker hut down in the valley, opens trails to the faces and peaks and also many comfortable new routes. For more information visit www.cochamo.com

The rock is a silver-coloured coarse granite. In places it is sandy, in others like the Anfiteatro, it is perfect. Open cracks viable for reasonable free climbing are rare, but there are more to find higher up. Cochamó is located in northern Patagonia which implies enhanced rainfall, but weather conditions are much better than down south around Fitz Roy where you have to wait weeks and months often in vain. In past years, there was good weather from end of January to end of February. The possible season is from October to April. Conditions are similar to the Alps, yet without lightning danger. Rescue is very difficult due to the dense vegetation. Check out www.cochamo.com

Photo: M.W.
Panorama de arriba: El refugio está abajo de todo en los pastos. Detrás Cerro La Junta (800m) y Cerro Capicúa (1000m)
Photo: M.W.
Último largo (5.10b) de Camp Farm (5.11, 250m), una ruta en libre en el Cerro La Junta
Photo: M.W.
2./3. pitch (5.8) of Icaro y la Luna (5.10c, 700m)
Foto: Nacho Morales
Javier in 2. pitch of Apnea (5.9) en la Zebra
Photo: M.W.
The huge face of Cerro Walwalün, approx. 800m high, perfect granite
M.W., M. Sanchez high up on Insomnio
M.Sanchez in one of the last pitches of the freeclimb Bienvenido a mi Insomnio, 5.10+, 900m, 22 pitches on Cerro Trinidad. Cerro Tronador is in the background.

Photo: M.Sanchez
M.Waldhoer in the last hard pitch (5.10c) of Bienvenido a mi Insomnio.

Photo: M.W.
View from top of Cerro Trinidad to N: the Monstruo is behind the ridge
Photo: M.Sanchez
First ascent of the superb cracks of Icaro y la Luna (5.10c). 

Starting all below on Cerro Escudo, 3 pitches 5.9

Pared do Gorila, opposite of Trinidad. Said to have bad rock.

5. pitch on Icaro y la Luna (5.10c)

1. pitch of Icaro

Traverse pitch of Bienvenido a mi Insomnio (5.11a)

Cochamo, photo M.Waldhoer
The old huts below the faces of Trinidad