VALLEY OF YERBA LOCA

Going home, foto: W.Farias

Yerba Loca is by now the main waterfall ice climbing area of Chile. In good years, there will be more than 50 waterfalls. In some sectors also mixed climbing is possible. The season is usually from June to End of August, but in 2002, ice has persisted until November. The altitude of 3000m is moderate but high enough to ensure stable conditions during 3 months. Weather can be bad during weeks, dropping metres of snow in short times, but usually there are longer periods of fine weather and the snow cover allows walking without skis. Besides the ice waterfalls, Cerro Altar Falso, La Paloma, Cerro Altar and other peaks offer classic ice faces and longer ice couloirs. See also Cerro Altar Falso, La Paloma and Villa Paulina for further possibilities. 

Location:  Reserva Nacional Yerba Loca, Villa Paulina, entrance on the road to Farellones ski resorts, see map of area...
Access:  4-5h hiking from Villa Paulina, in skiing season (June-September) bus service (5US$) from Omnium edificio, 8am or later, 5 blocks east of Metro station Escuela Militar. Hitchhiking possible out of season, but difficult.
Waterfalls:  More than 30 in normal years, many more in winter 2002
Grades:  Currently WI3-WI5
Characteristics:  Couloirs and waterfalls, some mixed. Rock is solid but not really good, cracks are rare
Height:  50m to 400m, altitude around 3000m
Equipment:  Some pitons in place, take pitons to rappel
Exposure:  All
Season:  June to September. Advice: violent snow storms can drop up to 1m snow in a day

See routes...

See pictures from climbing...

 

Quo Vadis, photo W.Farías
First ascent of the 400m-couloir of Quo Vadis. In the upper part of the Couloir.

Terminator, photo: W.F.
The waterfall of Circus Maximus with the Terminator, a continously strenuous 170m-ice climb , 4 pitches, 90°, WI5